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RIO DULCE, GUATEMALA, CENTRAL AMERICA

GENERAL INFORMATION

This Web Site contains the most complete and detailed information
about the Rio Dulce and the surrounding area.

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INTRODUCTION

In 1841 John Lloyd Stephens wrote:

In a few moments we entered the Rio Dulce. On each side, rising perpendicularly from three to four hundred feet, was a wall of living green. Trees grew from the water's edge, with dense unbroken foliage, to the top; not a spot of barrenness was to be seen; and on both sides, from the tops of the highest trees, long tendrils descended to the water, as if to drink and carry life to the trunks that bore them. It was, as its name imports, a Rio Dulce, a fairy scene of Titan land, combining exquisite beauty with colossal grandeur. As we advanced the passage turned, and in a few minutes we lost sight of the sea, and were enclosed on all sides by a forest wall; but the river, although showing us no passage, still invited us onward.

The area called "the Rio Dulce" begins at the mouth of the river on the Bahia de Amatique at the Garifuna town of Livingston. Going upriver, one passes through a spectacular steep walled canyon lined with jungle vegetation and wildlife. The river then widens into a small lake, El Golfete, the shores of which are lined with beautiful locations, Mayan settlements and a manatee reserve. The river then narrows and passes the towns of Fronteras and El Relleno where there is an abundance of hotels, restaurants, marinas, services for boaters, medical care, communications and transportation. A little further and the river widens into 590 square kilometer Lake Izabal, the largest lake in Guatemala.

The Rio Dulce is a large river that is 500 to 1500 meters (1/3 to 1 mile) wide over much of its length. The narrowest spot is at a point called La Vaca where the river narrows to a little over 100 meters (300 feet) as it squeezes through The Canyon. The river and both lakes are navigable by vessels of modest draft. The river and lakes are fed by many smaller rivers and countless creeks and streams. Many of these rivers can be traveled for miles by dinghy or canoe through beautiful forests and grassy meadows.

The Rio Dulce is an aquatic community. The highway passing through Fronteras / El Relleno on its way up to the Peten is the only access road to the area. Outside the towns of Fronteras and El Relleno there are no roads or footpaths other than a road leading to San Felipe and El Estor. The get around to different places on the Rio you must travel by boat. All homes and businesses on the Rio Dulce have a boat dock. Cruisers usually have a dinghy with a small outboard so getting around is not a problem. Travelers arriving by land will have to hire a speedboat (lancha) to get around. Lanchas are like taxis and are inexpensive.

You will find the people along the Rio Dulce to be among the friendliest you have ever encountered with a strong sense of community spirit, pride and service. The Rio Dulce is the favorite vacation spot for many wealthy Guatemalans. The emphasis is on boating and water sports but many backpackers and travelers from all parts of the world use the Rio Dulce as a jumping-off point for trips into the Peten, the rest of Guatemala, to Belize and Honduras.

There are hundreds of cruisers moored and anchored along the Rio Dulce and the cruiser community sponsors many activities such as barbeques, potluck dinners, sailboat and canoe races and a weekly swapmeet. Everyone is invited, whether or not they're a cruiser. It's easy to make many friends on the river.

Activities

  • Sailing - The Rio Dulce is a sailor's paradise on hundreds of square kilometers of fresh water with countless bays, coves and lagoons to explore. Large sailboats can be chartered and small ones can be rented.
  • Hiking/Walking trails exist in many places including the Biotopo de Chocon Machaca and on the south shore of Lake Izabal. There are also trails through a rubber plantation and virgin hardwood forests near Fronteras or just set off on your own.
  • Horseback Riding - Horses can be rented at Hacienda Tijax, a 500 acre tropical forest and rubber plantation near Fronteras and at Denny's Beach, located on the south shore of Lake Izabal.
  • Canoeing - Modern lightweight canoes can be rented for hourly or daily rates.
  • Windsurfing - The steady breeze in the afternoon is ideal for windsurfers and you have your choice of smooth or choppy water.
  • Fishing is a continual activity on the Rio Dulce with up to 50 pound robalo (snook) and mojarra (a freshwater perch) that some say is the best tasting fish in the world. There are also river bass, catfish and other species. During the dry season, tarpon come up the river to spawn.
  • Birdwatching - An astounding number of bird species inhabit the Rio Dulce area - more than 600 species. You can sit in one spot and identify dozens of species in an afternoon.
  • Swimming is an obvious activity in the warm waters of the Rio Dulce and several hotels have swimming pools.
  • Scuba Diving - The Spanish fought many battles with pirates along the Rio Dulce and commercial shipping has plied its waters for hundreds of years so many artifacts litter the bottom. Scuba diving is possible but visibility near the bottom is zero. Look and touch but its illegal to take anything. A certified scuba diving school is based in Rio Dulce and offers trips to the reefs off Belize. 
  • Daytrips or overnighters can be easily arranged by boat to points on the water such as Finca Paraiso, Boqueron Canyon or Denny's Beach or by shuttle to places such as the Mayan ruins at Copan, Quirigua, and Tikal.
  • Charter Cruises - There are several sailboats ranging from economy to luxury on the Rio Dulce available for charters. See below or see the Business Index.

Communications

Communications of every type are available in Fronteras on the Rio Dulce including a large Internet Cafe at Capt. Nemo's and the following:

· Landline telephones and FAX
· Electronic mail via the Internet
· Marine VHF Radio
· Courier mail and package shipping and receiving

These services are variously provided at Bruno's by Capt. Nemo's Communications.

Transportation

Lanchas

Transportation on the Rio Dulce is primarily by water. If you don't have your own dinghy or skiff it is easy to hire one of the dozens of lanchas (speedboats) that serve as water taxis. During the day there are at least a half-dozen at the city dock waiting to serve you. Lanchas vary in size and type but the most common is the extremely rugged 26 foot Tibonurera with 16 seats and powered by a large outboard. Prices are reasonable and negotiable, especially for groups or longer distance trips.

 

Pullman Buses

The routes for several bus companies pass through Rio Dulce. Transportes Litegua runs the fastest buses in Guatemala along the Caribbean highway between Guatemala City, Rio Dulce, Morales/Bananera and Puerto Barrios. The trip from Rio Dulce to Guatemala City takes five to six hours. The return trip is a little faster. Litegua buses depart from the southwest side of the road in Fronteras near the foot of the bridge. Food and drinks are available from roadside vendors at several places along the way. A 15 minute rest stop occurs at about the half-way point to Guatemala City. The buses do not have restrooms, however, Linea Dorada provides first-class bus service to Río Dulce and the Peten. Their buses are large, new, and air-conditioned with a restroom and a stewardess serving refreshments.

Click Here to see the Litegua bus schedule for Guatemala City, Rio Dulce, Morales and Puerto Barrios.

Shuttles / Vans

Passenger van shuttle service is provided by:

    • Atitlan Shuttle runs a daily van leaving at 4:00 PM which will take you to any hotel in Guatemala City or Antigua. Special shuttles to various locations are announced on the marine VHF radio. Shuttles can also be chartered.

Rental Cars

    • Iguana Azúl rents cars and vans.

Charter Cruises

 

Travel Agencies

There is no full-service travel agency in Rio Dulce, yet. However, flights can be booked and confirmed by telephone or Internet from Capt. Nemo's Communications.

 

Fitness

SILUET Gym and Beauty Salon

Want to keep in shape for sailing, back-packing, or just want to do something good for yourself?

  • Large variety of fitness machines and free-weights to allow you to customize your workout
  • Attractive rates by the day, week or month
  • Unisex with separate shower facilities
  • Easy access by land or sea, on the water between the main dock and Dispensa Familiar
  • Open MWF 6-6 TTS 8-8
  • Walk-ins welcome or call for hair appts. at 5291-3800

 

Medical Care

There are four medical clinics in the Rio Dulce area. Two are in Fronteras, one has blood chemistry and diagnostic capability. Another is the APROFAM clinic specializing in the special needs of women. There is a third clinic in aldea La Bacadilla near Rosita's about 2 km downriver from Fronteras. A fourth clinic is located at Ak' Tenamit on El Golfete. The clinic at Ak' Tenamit is staffed 24 hrs and has a full-time nurse. In all there are 5 doctors who practice in the Rio Dulce area.

The clinic in La Bacadilla is located near a 1500m airstrip which can be used for helicopter or long-range fixed wing medevac. The staff at this clinic is versed in preparing a patient for medevac. There is also a helipad in Fronteras that can be used for medevac.

Several well-stocked pharmacies are open for business in Fronteras.

For more serious medical problems, there is the San Jose Medical Clinic (telephone: 947-8015) in the nearby town of Morales. The San Jose Clinic also has a 24 hour emergency clinic with x-ray equipment, lab and pharmacy and is staffed by the following doctors:

Traumatology:

Dr. Avila
Dr. Gomes Pais
Dr. Gomes Salay

Gynecology:

Dr. Madel de Cabrera

Maternity:

Dr. Ramon de Paz

Pediatrics:

Dr. Jose Garcia

Internal Medicine:

Dr. Alvarez
Dr. Cheverria
Dr. Aquino

Laboratory:

Dr. Blanca Lina

Ultrasound Specialist:

Dr. Natalia Moreno

 

Dental Care

Fronteras has two dental clinics:

Clinical Dental Armando Mejia, located on the road towards San Felipe. Dr. Mejia has 15 years experience and can handle filling, porcelain and gold crowns, root canals, cleaning, extractions and can provide rapid service on partials. He does not have x-ray equipment.

Clinical Dental Abel Aguire is located on the highway to the Peten, just north of Fronteras. Dr. Aguire can handle fillings, dentures and partials, extractions, cleaning, crowns and cosmetic work. He does not have x-ray equipment. Dr. Aguire's office is open Monday through Saturday, 7 A.M. to 5 P.M.

Looking for more information?
See the
RIO DULCE MESSAGE BOARD

Looking for info or advice? Have items for sale? Looking to buy something? Or, chat with other people interested in Río Dulce?  Read or join the conversations on the Maya Paradise Message Forum:
http://www.mayaparadise.com/bbswelcome.htm    <-Click Here.

Copyright © 1997-2008 Phillip Landmeier


Information for Cruisers and Boaters

Guatemala Facts


Rio Dulce Environment, Sights & Nature
Rio Dulce Geography
Mayan Ancient History
Rio Dulce Phone Directory
Photos
Bibliography

Last updated April 26, 2008

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