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In 1841 John Lloyd Stephens wrote:
In a few moments we entered the Rio Dulce. On each side, rising perpendicularly from
three to four hundred feet, was a wall of living green. Trees grew from the water's edge,
with dense unbroken foliage, to the top; not a spot of barrenness was to be seen; and on
both sides, from the tops of the highest trees, long tendrils descended to the water, as
if to drink and carry life to the trunks that bore them. It was, as its name imports, a
Rio Dulce, a fairy scene of Titan land, combining exquisite beauty with colossal grandeur.
As we advanced the passage turned, and in a few minutes we lost sight of the sea, and were
enclosed on all sides by a forest wall; but the river, although showing us no passage,
still invited us onward.
The area called "the Rio Dulce" begins at the mouth of the river on the Bahia
de Amatique at the Garifuna town of Livingston. Going upriver, one passes through a
spectacular steep walled canyon lined with jungle vegetation and wildlife. The river then
widens into a small lake, El Golfete, the shores of which are lined with beautiful
locations, Mayan
settlements and a manatee reserve. The river then narrows and passes the towns of
Fronteras and El Relleno where there is an abundance of hotels, restaurants, marinas,
services for boaters, medical care, communications and transportation. A little
further and the river widens into 590 square kilometer Lake Izabal, the largest lake in Guatemala.
The Rio Dulce is a large river that is 500 to 1500 meters (1/3 to 1 mile) wide over
much of its length. The narrowest spot is at a point called La Vaca where the river
narrows to a little over 100 meters (300 feet) as it squeezes through The Canyon. The
river and both lakes are navigable by vessels of modest draft. The river and lakes are
fed by many smaller rivers and countless creeks and streams. Many of these rivers can be
traveled for miles by dinghy or canoe through beautiful forests and grassy meadows.
The Rio Dulce is an aquatic community. The highway passing through Fronteras / El
Relleno on its way up to the Peten is the only access road to the area. Outside the towns
of Fronteras and El Relleno there are no roads or footpaths other than a road leading to
San Felipe and El Estor. The get around to
different places on the Rio you must travel by boat. All homes and businesses on the
Rio Dulce have a boat dock. Cruisers usually have a dinghy with a small outboard so getting around
is not a problem. Travelers arriving by land will have to hire a speedboat (lancha) to get
around. Lanchas are like taxis and are inexpensive.
You will find the people along the Rio Dulce to be among the friendliest you have ever
encountered with a strong sense of community spirit, pride and service. The Rio Dulce is
the favorite vacation spot for many wealthy Guatemalans. The emphasis is on boating and water sports but many backpackers and
travelers from all parts of the world use the Rio Dulce as a jumping-off point for trips
into the Peten, the rest of Guatemala, to Belize and Honduras.
There are hundreds of cruisers moored and anchored along the Rio Dulce and the cruiser community
sponsors many activities such as barbeques, potluck dinners, sailboat and canoe races and
a weekly swapmeet. Everyone is invited, whether or not they're a cruiser. It's easy to
make many friends on the river.
Activities
- Sailing
- The Rio Dulce is a sailor's paradise on hundreds of square kilometers
of fresh water with countless bays, coves and lagoons to explore. Large sailboats can be
chartered and small ones can be rented.
- Hiking/Walking
trails exist in many places including the Biotopo de Chocon
Machaca and on the south shore of Lake Izabal. There are also trails through a rubber
plantation and virgin hardwood forests near Fronteras or just set off on your own.
- Horseback Riding
- Horses can be rented at Hacienda Tijax, a 500 acre tropical
forest and rubber plantation near Fronteras and at Denny's Beach, located on the south
shore of Lake Izabal.
- Canoeing
- Modern lightweight canoes can be rented for hourly or daily rates.
- Windsurfing
- The steady breeze in the afternoon is ideal for windsurfers and
you have your choice of smooth or choppy water.
- Fishing
is a continual activity on the Rio Dulce with up to 50 pound robalo
(snook) and mojarra (a freshwater perch) that some say is the best tasting fish in the world. There
are also river bass, catfish and other species. During the dry season, tarpon come up
the river to spawn.
- Birdwatching
- An astounding number of bird species inhabit the Rio Dulce
area - more than 600 species.
You can sit in one spot and identify dozens of species in an afternoon.
- Swimming
is an obvious activity in the warm waters of the Rio Dulce and several
hotels have swimming pools.
- Scuba Diving
- The Spanish fought many battles with pirates along the Rio Dulce and
commercial shipping has plied its waters for hundreds of years so many
artifacts litter the bottom. Scuba diving is possible but visibility near
the bottom is zero. Look and touch but its illegal to take anything. A
certified scuba diving school is based in Rio Dulce and offers trips to the
reefs off Belize.
- Daytrips or overnighters
can be easily arranged by boat to points on the water
such as Finca Paraiso, Boqueron Canyon or Denny's Beach or by shuttle to places such as
the Mayan ruins at Copan, Quirigua, and Tikal.
- Charter Cruises - There are several sailboats ranging from economy to luxury on the Rio
Dulce available for charters. See below or see the
Business
Index.
Communications
Communications of every type are available in Fronteras on the Rio Dulce including a
large Internet Cafe at Capt. Nemo's and the following:
· Landline telephones and FAX
· Electronic mail via the Internet
· Marine VHF Radio
· Courier mail and package shipping and receiving
These services are variously provided at Bruno's by Capt. Nemo's Communications.
Transportation
Lanchas
Transportation on the Rio Dulce is primarily by water. If you don't have your own
dinghy or skiff it is easy to hire one of the dozens of lanchas (speedboats) that serve as
water taxis. During the day there are at least a half-dozen at the city dock waiting to
serve you. Lanchas vary in size and type but the most common is the extremely rugged 26
foot Tibonurera with 16 seats and powered by a large outboard. Prices are reasonable and
negotiable, especially for groups or longer distance trips.
Pullman Buses
The routes for several bus companies pass through Rio Dulce. Transportes Litegua runs
the fastest buses in Guatemala along the Caribbean highway between Guatemala City, Rio
Dulce, Morales/Bananera and Puerto Barrios. The trip from Rio Dulce to Guatemala City
takes five to six hours. The return trip is a little faster. Litegua buses depart from the
southwest side of the road in Fronteras near the foot of the bridge. Food and drinks are
available from roadside vendors at several places along the way. A 15 minute rest stop
occurs at about the half-way point to Guatemala City. The buses do not have
restrooms, however, Linea Dorada provides first-class bus service to Río Dulce and the
Peten. Their buses are large, new, and air-conditioned with a restroom and a
stewardess serving refreshments.
Click Here to see the Litegua bus schedule for Guatemala
City, Rio Dulce, Morales and Puerto Barrios.
Shuttles / Vans
Passenger van shuttle service is provided by:
- Atitlan Shuttle
runs a daily van leaving at 4:00 PM which will take you to any
hotel in Guatemala City or Antigua. Special shuttles to various locations are announced on
the marine VHF radio. Shuttles can also be chartered.
Rental Cars
- Iguana Azúl
rents cars and vans.
Charter Cruises
Travel Agencies
There is no full-service travel agency in Rio Dulce, yet. However, flights can be
booked and confirmed by telephone or Internet from Capt.
Nemo's Communications.
Fitness
SILUET Gym and Beauty Salon
Want to keep in shape for sailing, back-packing, or just want to do
something good for yourself?
- Large variety of fitness machines and free-weights to allow you to
customize your workout
- Attractive rates by the day, week or month
- Unisex with separate shower facilities
- Easy access by land or sea, on the water between the main dock and
Dispensa Familiar
- Open MWF 6-6 TTS 8-8
- Walk-ins welcome or call for hair appts. at 5291-3800
Medical Care
There are four medical clinics in the Rio Dulce area. Two are in Fronteras, one has
blood chemistry and diagnostic capability. Another is the APROFAM clinic specializing in the special needs of women. There is a third clinic in
aldea La Bacadilla near Rosita's about 2 km downriver from Fronteras. A fourth clinic is
located at Ak' Tenamit on El Golfete. The clinic at Ak' Tenamit
is staffed 24 hrs and has a full-time nurse. In all there are 5 doctors who practice in
the Rio Dulce area.
The clinic in La Bacadilla is located near a 1500m airstrip which can be used for
helicopter or long-range fixed wing medevac. The staff at this clinic is versed in
preparing a patient for medevac. There is also a helipad in Fronteras that can be used for
medevac.
Several well-stocked pharmacies are open for business in Fronteras.
For more serious medical problems, there is the San Jose Medical Clinic (telephone:
947-8015) in the nearby town of Morales. The San Jose Clinic also has a 24 hour emergency
clinic with x-ray equipment, lab and pharmacy and is staffed by the following doctors:
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Traumatology: |
Dr. Avila
Dr. Gomes Pais
Dr. Gomes Salay |
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Gynecology: |
Dr. Madel de Cabrera |
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Maternity: |
Dr. Ramon de Paz |
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Pediatrics: |
Dr. Jose Garcia |
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Internal Medicine: |
Dr. Alvarez
Dr. Cheverria
Dr. Aquino |
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Laboratory: |
Dr. Blanca Lina |
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Ultrasound Specialist: |
Dr. Natalia Moreno |
Dental Care
Fronteras has two dental clinics:
Clinical Dental Armando Mejia, located on the road towards San Felipe. Dr. Mejia
has 15 years experience and can handle filling, porcelain and gold crowns, root canals,
cleaning, extractions and can provide rapid service on partials. He does not have x-ray
equipment.
Clinical Dental Abel Aguire is located on the highway to the Peten, just north of
Fronteras. Dr. Aguire can handle fillings, dentures and partials, extractions, cleaning,
crowns and cosmetic work. He does not have x-ray equipment. Dr. Aguire's office is open
Monday through Saturday, 7 A.M. to 5 P.M.
Looking for more information?
See the
RIO DULCE MESSAGE BOARD
Looking for info or advice? Have items for sale? Looking to buy something? Or,
chat with other people interested in Río Dulce? Read or join the conversations on the Maya Paradise Message Forum:
http://www.mayaparadise.com/bbswelcome.htm
<-Click Here.
Copyright © 1997-2008 Phillip Landmeier
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